China's Cashmere Industry Urgently Needs Industrial Upgrading

　　 The weather is cold now, all kinds of warm and cold proof. product Also listed on the market, known as " Fiber diamond "Cashmere products have become another option for people to keep warm in winter.

Cashmere is a rare and special animal fiber in the world, a high-grade material in the textile industry. However, such a precious and luxury consumer goods can spend tens of yuan on domestic supermarkets, hypermarkets or even stalls.

According to the insiders, China has always been a great cashmere country in the world, but it is not a cashmere country. It is urgent to raise the level of design and technology and cultivate the brand of cashmere products that go abroad.

　 　 Raw wool yield World first

China's cashmere industry has a unique position in the international market. As early as 150 years ago, China's cashmere has been transported to Europe. In 1970s, Saussurea produced the first cashmere sweater in China, announces that China began to develop its own cashmere industry. "Before the 90s of the last century, the cashmere processing industry in China was mainly washed and carding, and the deep-processing capacity increased rapidly since the end of 90s. After more than 20 years of rapid development, China has formed a complete cashmere industry system, which occupies an extremely important position in the world cashmere industry. Chinese food and livestock import and Export Chamber of Commerce, director of the Department of livestock production Tian Hong said.

Data show that at present, China's raw wool production accounts for more than 75% of the world's original velvet output; more than 90% of the world's cashmere raw materials have been processed in China; the number of cashmere and its products in China is the first in the world, the world's number one in production capacity and the number one in the world, and the goods with more than 3/4 in the world's cashmere consumption market are produced in China.

It is understood that in the past 10 years, the world's original velvet output has stabilized at about 16 thousand tons. In China, the average annual output of raw silk is 12 thousand tons, and that of Mongolia is 3000 tons, and that of Russia, Iran and the central and Western Asian countries is more than 1500 tons.

Tian Jun, director of the testing laboratory of the national cashmere products engineering technology research center, said that China has a unique geographical advantage in raising cashmere goats. The cashmere products are white and slender, and are known as "fiber diamonds". Most of cashmere is mainly made of purple velvet, and the fineness and luster are generally poor. Therefore, Chinese cashmere has always been the foundation and support of the international cashmere industry.

　　 Industrial value has not been highlighted

With the structural adjustment and production transfer of the international manufacturing industry, China has become the fastest growing and most potential cashmere consumer market in the world. In recent years, the upgrading of China's consumption level has opened up room for growth of cashmere industry, and many cashmere enterprises have already outperformed exports. "The cashmere deep processing industry has been shifting to China. The export structure of cashmere has changed from raw materials to cashmere products, and has completed the transformation of cashmere raw materials to a large producer of cashmere products." Tian Hong said.

It is understood that there are nearly 1000 scale cashmere processing enterprises in China. The annual cashmere sweater production capacity has exceeded 40 million. The cashmere products produced from the first ordinary knitted cashmere sweater, now develop from underwear to coat, from knitted to woven, from clothing to home textiles.

"But the quality of products in the industry is not balanced. It is mainly shown that the quality of products varies greatly among different brands in the market. The quality of most famous brands, especially the content of cashmere fiber, can be guaranteed. However, there is a lack of cashmere fiber content and shoddy phenomenon in small brands of cashmere products." Tian Jun pointed out.

According to introduction, the value of cashmere is affected by 3 factors: fineness, length and color. The requirement of fineness of cashmere for the international textile industry department is the best with the diameter of 13 to 16 m. In the international market, the cashmere price with a diameter of 16 m and the length of cashmere is the highest, and the unit price of the cashmere decreases with the diameter. The color is divided into white velvet, cashmere and purple velvet, and white flannel is the most precious, accounting for only 30% of the world's cashmere output.

According to the insiders, cashmere is more expensive in all kinds of textile products based on the characteristics of scarcity, luxury and comfort. But for the time being, its value as high-grade textile material has not been fully reflected in cashmere products, and the cashmere products are not distinguished from other textiles in terms of high quality, dignity and comfort.

"On the one hand, with the development of cashmere industry and the improvement of people's living standards, cashmere products are gradually moving towards civilian consumption, and consumer demand has expanded year by year, and some production enterprises without long-term brand development plan have neglected the quality requirements in this process." Tian Hong said: "on the other hand, it is difficult for ordinary consumers to distinguish the authenticity and the grade of cashmere raw materials. The confusion of the market leads to the high quality of consumers' enjoyment of high-grade materials, and the consumer confidence in cashmere products can not be improved, nor is it willing to buy such products at high prices. In the long run, vicious circle, the value of the entire industry can not be realized, and is seriously underestimated. " Tian Hong believes that the quality of cashmere products has always been the concern and focus of the industry colleagues at home and abroad. The development of cashmere industry can only focus on the upgrading of cashmere value.

In addition, in view of the pilling problem of consumer complaints, Tian Jun said that the pilling problem of cashmere products is related to the characteristics of cashmere fibers, and is currently an international problem of the industry. The reasons for fuzzing and pilling are complex and varied. As long as the quality of raw materials to the spinning and finishing process is strictly regulated, the quality control standard can not be completely eliminated, but it can be improved to a level acceptable to consumers.

　 Low value added technology

Although the world's best cashmere is produced in China and the production equipment is the same, foreign cashmere sweaters can be sold to several thousand euros, and the average price of Chinese cashmere sweaters exported to abroad is only two hundred or three hundred yuan. This once let the Chinese cashmere entrepreneur visit to Italy's top cashmere Brand Company to learn and feel that why the foreign cashmere products could be sold at such a high price. Finally, they found the crux of the problem: the difference between cashmere products at home and abroad in the fine arts and crafts design, which resulted in the additional value of cashmere can not be improved.

"Cashmere, because of its special material, cashmere design involves a set of dyeing, finishing and dyeing processes. We still have a certain gap in this respect. " Tian Hong said. In this regard, Tian Jun also pointed out that product design has the same phenomenon. Most brands of different brands do not have clear and obvious positioning and differences, which is another manifestation of the uneven development of quality. Tian Jun said that the main reason for this problem is that some enterprises invest less in product design, the level of designers is not high, and imitation is serious.

It is understood that a considerable part of China's cashmere products are still hovering in the international low-end market, although there are many Chinese made cashmere products in the high-end market, but few Chinese brands. Most of the export cashmere products enter the international market on the basis of OEM, but less than 20% of the real Chinese brand. Especially along with the internal and external factors such as RMB appreciation, labor cost increase and export price transparency in recent years, the export of OEM products has not been able to get an ideal profit margin.

Insiders pointed out that for a long time, domestic cashmere enterprises have been emphasizing the "soft gold" advantage of raw materials, ignoring the fashion characteristics of clothing, resulting in the neglect of design, resulting in cashmere products becoming one of the most lack of design styles in the clothing market. The lack of cashmere designers causes products to keep up with the trend changes, but gradually away from consumers, and also become a major obstacle to enhance the brand of Chinese cashmere garments.

Tian Hong believes that the reason for this situation lies in the lack of the creation of famous brands and marketing channels. For the current sales channels of domestic cashmere products, Dou Xiaoxu, manager of the raw materials department of Saussurea, has the same feeling: "ensuring quality is the first principle, but it is also very important to expand the channels of publicity, create an independent brand, and extend the industrial chain to the downstream."

　　 At present, the sales channels of cashmere products in the international market are basically controlled by foreign countries. Chinese enterprises have few independent sales channels, and the value of products is difficult to be realized by Chinese enterprises. Dou Xiaoxu said: "Saussurea, as the leader of the Chinese cashmere industry, has always adhered to the principle of improving the quality and constantly innovating in the development of new products in recent years. In the process of identifying the market orientation and actively seeking to expand the marketing channels, efforts are being made to make snow lotus a more influential brand."